A Guide to Sewing Needles

When it comes to sewing, using the right needle is just as important as choosing the right fabric and thread. A well-matched needle ensures smooth stitching, prevents skipped stitches, and prolongs the life of your machine.

I use Schmetz needles for my makö patterns project.

In this guide, I’ll break down which Schmetz sewing needle to use for different fabric types.

Understanding Needle Types

Schmetz offers a wide variety of needles, each designed for specific fabrics and sewing techniques. Here are some of the most commonly used ones:

1. Universal Needles (Sizes: 70/10 - 90/14)

• Best for: Woven and knit fabrics
• Great all-purpose needle for cotton, linen, polyester, and lightweight wool 
• Not ideal for delicate or dense fabrics

2. Ballpoint (Jersey) Needles (Sizes: 70/10 - 90/14)

• Best for: Knits, jersey, and stretch fabrics
• The rounded tip glides between fabric fibers instead of piercing them
• Prevents skipped stitches and damage to stretchy fabrics

3. Stretch Needles (Sizes: 75/11 - 90/14)

• Best for: Highly elastic fabrics like Lycra, Spandex, and swimwear fabric
• Features a special eye and scarf design to prevent skipped stitches
• Recommended for elastic waistbands, sportswear, and lingerie

4. Microtex (Sharp) Needles (Sizes: 60/8 - 90/14)

• Best for: Delicate, tightly woven fabrics like silk, tulle, and fine cotton
• The extra-sharp point ensures precise stitches without snagging
• Ideal for topstitching and fine embroidery work

5. Denim (Jeans) Needles (Sizes: 90/14 - 110/18)

• Best for: Denim, canvas, and heavy twill fabrics
• The reinforced shaft pierces thick layers without breaking
• Great for jeans-making, workwear, and bag sewing

6. Leather Needles (Sizes: 80/12 - 110/18)

• Best for: Leather, faux leather, and suede
• Features a chisel-like tip that cuts through leather smoothly
• Not suitable for knit or woven fabrics

7. Quilting Needles (Sizes: 75/11 - 90/14)

• Best for: Quilting cotton, batting, and multiple fabric layers
• The tapered point allows for smooth piercing and reduced fabric shifting
• Helps prevent puckering in patchwork and quilting projects

 

How to Choose the Right Needle Size: Quick GUIDE

Fabric Type	Recommended Needle Size
Lightweight fabrics (silk, chiffon)	60/8 - 70/10
Medium-weight fabrics (cotton, linen)	80/12 - 90/14
Heavy fabrics (denim, canvas)	100/16 - 110/18
Stretchy fabrics (jersey, spandex)	75/11 - 90/14
Leather & Vinyl	90/14 - 110/18

 

Choosing the right needle makes a huge difference in your sewing experience. By using the correct needle for your fabric, you’ll achieve better stitch quality, reduce fabric damage, and extend the life of your sewing machine.

What’s your go-to needle? Let me know in the comments below! 😊